Oh Heck, I’m Up to My Neck…in MUD!

The rain has finally come to Monduli! It was about 3 weeks later than normal and obviously affected life all around!

The Dust

Rain did come to this area over one month ago. It was a good downpour. Unfortunately, it didn't last. It did encourage people to plant their maize – mostly used for their own consumption. The plants shot up with the moisture. Then, they immediately started to wither under the sun. Just as soon as the rain started, it stopped. Dust returned everywhere. Talks turned to the widespread drought that covered the area two years ago. The sky would cloud up and then produce nothing. We even planted the entire school garden, only to have nothing germinate except lots of weeds. The implication, the one that no one really spoke of, was that people would starve. In the States if a crop fails maybe prices increase a bit in the grocery store. Here, when most of the crops go directly to feed your family, if they fail, the consequences are far more grave.

The Sub-Saharan Depression

Whether it was because of the lack of rain or just the grind of school, there was a heavy cloud hanging over our house. We volunteers were grouchy toward each other. The students, while almost always courteous, had a bit of an edge to them. The work just wasn't fun. It was work. It was virtually impossible to find a reprieve. We were tired out, fed up, and generally frustrated. I can't help but think that a fair amount of that influence came from the lack of rain and the emotional effects it carried. Thankfully, we remained civil toward each other. I think we all sort of understood that this wasn't normal. And, in the words of that famous person Anonymous, we knew that "this too shall pass."

The Rain

Finally the rains came! Last week, with a torrent, they came. Buckets and buckets fell from the sky. The change in the air was obvious. The students were quite literally jubilant! Even Form 3, who usually growls at anyone who tries to be the least bit cheerful with them responded. "Good morning Form 3!" Lisa would say. They cheerfully responded with, "Good morning, Teacher!" What the…. That never happens! The rains just create a hum in the air. I can remember at home in Wyoming this same thing would happen. When people are so closely connected to their surroundings, major changes like this have an obvious effect. Maji ni uhai – Water is Life!

The Mud

An obvious side effect of the rain is mud. How shall I describe the mud? You know those Betty Crocker tubs of frosting? Picture something like "Dark Fudge" or something like that. You know that same creamy, smooth texture and dark black/brown color? Well, picture the road being covered in that and trying to navigate a Land Rover through it. That's what is created when it rains here. We spun off the road on Friday. Everyone piled out (I say piled because we usually stack 10 extra bodies on the Land Rover). Even the principal ripped off his suit coat and went to digging. We went off the road right next to a family's boma (house). I was sure at any moment we would tip over and crash through their mud wall! Finally after much digging and being covered in mud, literally, we got unstuck. Students standing around were laughing. But then, they had to walk home through it. The road turns into a river of rushing muddy water crashing down from the hills above. The going becomes slow. Easy trips into the school become a battle every morning and night. Ah the fun!

The Disease

Right along with the water comes the disease. If you are constantly wet and sleeping in and near mud, chances are good you'll get sick. This has happened around here for sure. I've seen quite a few cases of water-borne disease, malaria and of course the ongoing battle of parasites. I don't know what you do about it either. Even Lisa is sick now; hacking up a lung. I think our epically long walk yesterday didn't help.

The Epic Walk (followed by the epic blisters!)

Yesterday we walked to the end of the Earth. Its name is Lendikenya. Unfortunately, because of the mud, we decided to wear the rubber, calf-high boots. We were following a student to her boma and she didn't seem to be having any problems. Lisa and I on the other hand were in full sweat mode! By the time we arrived, we had walked nearly 6 miles there and I was covered in sweat. But, it's always worth it! Her dad is a farmer and her mother a primary school teacher. They were happy to have us there and even killed a chicken for us to eat. We had a great conversation, as translated through our student. Lisa told them about her father, Jeff, who is a farmer. They decided Jeff needed to come visit them if he ever came to Tanzania! Finally, after filling our stomachs with tea, makande (corn and beans cooked together) and chicken, we began our return journey. Thankfully Ben was able to meet us about 2/3 of the way into the trip. I'm pretty sure we wouldn't have made it all the way home! Right now, I have a blister about the size of a quarter on one foot. Lisa has one that looks like a small marble on her foot. But, ha ha ha Seth, this is how most people get around here. My tender-footed ways wouldn't last very long without the aid of a car and some serious foot crème!

The Healer - Baba Loliondo

There is a faith healer that EVERYONE is going to near Loliondo. He makes a drink, blesses it, and people are cured. The five things it cures are tuberculosis, AIDS, cancer, diabetes and ulcers. People are flocking up this rough, long, dusty (well now muddy) treacherous road by the thousands. Once they arrive, the queue is so long, a few die just waiting for the dawa (medicine). He charges 500 shillings per person for overhead costs. Transport services are charging hundreds of thousands of shillings to get you there. Don't tell people that you don't believe in it, either. This is grounds for a healthy debate and eventual ridicule from the obvious polarizing effect such an emotionally charged issue can create. Also, don't go to the knock-off healer in Moshi. His dawa doesn't work.